A European Union ban on destroying unsold clothing and footwear came into force on July 19, forcing large fashion companies to rethink what happens to excess stock and customer returns.
The measure applies to large manufacturers, wholesalers and retailers operating in the EU. Instead of discarding unwanted goods, companies must seek to keep them in circulation by selling them—potentially through discounts or alternative markets—donating them to charities or social enterprises, or preparing them for reuse through repair, refurbishment or remanufacturing.
The ban covers clothing, clothing accessories and footwear and forms part of the EU’s Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation, adopted in 2024. The regulation is intended to make products sold in Europe more durable, repairable and resource-efficient while encouraging businesses to prevent surplus stock in the first place.
Between 4% and 9% of textile products placed on the European market are estimated to be destroyed before they are ever used, according to the European Environment Agency. That represents between 264,000 and 594,000 tonnes of textiles annually. The European Commission estimates that the practice generates around 5.6 million tonnes of carbon dioxide emissions each year, as the water, raw materials, energy and labour used to manufacture the goods are also wasted.
Online shopping has added to the problem by generating large volumes of returns, some of which are considered too costly to inspect, repackage and resell. Fashion companies have also destroyed excess inventory to avoid storage costs, prevent discounting or protect the exclusivity of their brands.
The prohibition is not absolute. Goods may still be destroyed in limited circumstances—for example, if they are unsafe, irreparably damaged, counterfeit or infringe intellectual property rights. Destruction may also be permitted when donation programs reject the products. Companies using these exemptions must provide evidence, publish annual information about discarded goods and retain records for five years. National authorities will monitor compliance and may impose fines.
The rules initially apply to large companies, generally those with more than 250 employees and annual turnover above €50 million. Medium-sized businesses will come under the ban in 2030, while small and microbusinesses are exempt.
The measure marks a shift in Europe’s approach to fashion waste: from managing unwanted clothing after it has been discarded to making companies responsible for avoiding waste altogether. Its wider impact will depend on enforcement—but it gives brands a clear incentive to produce more accurately, manage returns more effectively and treat unsold clothing as a resource rather than rubbish.
