For decades, Greek-owned diners were an essential part of everyday life in New York City, serving as neighborhood gathering places and becoming one of the most recognizable success stories of the Greek-American community. Today, however, many of these iconic establishments are closing their doors or relocating away from Manhattan, marking the gradual end of a defining chapter in the city’s culinary and immigrant history.
The latest example is Cozy Soup ‘n’ Burger, a longtime East Village landmark that closed on June 21 after operating since 1972 at the corner of Astor Place and Broadway. Known for its homemade soups, burgers and classic American diner fare, it became a favorite among New York University students, office workers and tourists. The diner also appeared in scenes from the Adam Sandler film Big Daddy.
Its closure comes amid broader changes sweeping through New York. Cozy Soup ‘n’ Burger was one of the last authentic Greek-owned diners in a neighborhood undergoing rapid transformation, while changing eating habits among younger generations have also altered demand.
Just days earlier, Kiki’s, a popular Greek taverna in Chinatown, also shut its doors, while Star on 18 Café, located at the intersection of 10th Avenue and 18th Street, closed on May 31. These are only a few of the businesses that have disappeared in recent years as the city’s once-thriving Greek diner tradition steadily declines.
Rising Costs and a Changing Industry
Owners say the challenges facing traditional diners have become increasingly difficult to overcome.
John Stratis, the third-generation owner of Cozy Soup ‘n’ Burger, said soaring operating costs and declining customer numbers ultimately made the business unsustainable.
“Unfortunately, rising rents, higher food costs and increasing staff wages no longer allow us to continue. This is not simply the closure of a diner—it is the end of an era,” he said.
Betty Gioulis, owner of Star on 18 Café, expressed sadness at leaving behind longtime customers and the neighborhood she served. She plans to open another diner, likely in Queens.
Petros Gromitsaris, owner of Ewing Diner in New Jersey, pointed to the lasting effects of the pandemic and rising labor costs.
“The pandemic was devastating. The minimum wage went from nine dollars to sixteen dollars in just five years, and now there are discussions about raising it to twenty-five dollars an hour. The older generation is fading away, and younger people are not particularly interested in running diners,” he said.
According to owners, the combination of sharply rising rents, increasing operating expenses and the reluctance of younger generations to take on a business that demands long working hours has created what many New Yorkers jokingly—but increasingly seriously—refer to as the “Greek Diner Collapse Syndrome.”
The Rise of Greek Diners
The story of Greek diners mirrors the broader story of Greek immigration to the United States.
The first major waves of Greek immigrants arrived in the eastern and Midwestern United States between 1890 and 1921. Many initially opened small coffeehouses where fellow immigrants gathered to socialize, drink coffee and maintain ties to their homeland.
As America’s industrial economy expanded and around-the-clock work became more common, Greek entrepreneurs adapted by moving into the diner business. The long, railcar-style restaurants serving affordable food at all hours proved to be a natural fit.
Following World War II, another wave of Greek immigrants arrived. Many started as dishwashers, cooks or waiters before eventually purchasing the diners where they worked. Over time, Greek families came to dominate the sector. By the mid-1990s, nearly two-thirds of New York City’s diners were owned by Greek families.
Some of the city’s best-known diners—including Neptune in Astoria, Tom’s near Columbia University, Cozy Soup ‘n’ Burger in Astor Place and the 42nd Street Diner in Hell’s Kitchen—were Greek-owned businesses.
These establishments often operated as true family enterprises. Parents managed the kitchen and cash register, while children and relatives worked as servers. Many remained open 24 hours a day, becoming familiar meeting places for taxi drivers, nurses finishing overnight shifts, students and local residents.
Although diners primarily served classic American staples such as pancakes, burgers and milkshakes, many also offered Greek favorites including gyros, spanakopita and baklava, creating a distinctive blend of American and Greek culinary traditions.
More than restaurants, these diners became symbols of the American Dream, demonstrating how immigrant families could build successful businesses while preserving their cultural identity.
Preserving a Vanishing Legacy
As redevelopment reshapes neighborhoods, rents continue to climb and younger generations pursue different careers, many of New York’s historic Greek diners are disappearing.
Yet their legacy is being preserved through the Kay Zakariassen Greek Diners Collection, a unique archive documenting Greek-owned diners in New York during the 1970s.
Created in 1976 by journalism student Kay Zakariassen and donated to the New York Public Library in 2022, the collection is available through the library’s digital archives. It contains approximately 400 photographs and interviews with diner owners, cooks, waiters and employees, offering an important historical record of the Greek-American community and the businesses that helped shape New York’s social and cultural landscape.
