A warning bell is ringing for the sustainability of Santorini’s vineyards, which are slowly but steadily deteriorating. Winemakers on the island warn that without decisive action, grape production could completely collapse by 2042.
The aging of the vines, a lack of young farmers, unregulated overdevelopment, and the effects of climate change in the Mediterranean coastal region have all left the island’s vineyards in a dire state as they fight for survival.
Santorini’s vineyard spans 10,000 stremmas (1,000 hectares), with Assyrtiko making up 80% of the planted area. Though Santorini’s PDO wines are among the world’s most renowned, the primary sector on which the island’s winemaking depends is walking a tightrope, according to local producers.
“Even though the situation seems grim, we remain optimistic and will fight for the survival of our vineyard,” says Petros Vamvakousis, president of the Santorini Winemakers Association, speaking to OT.
A Threefold Threat
Vamvakousis identifies a trio of threats putting the vineyard’s future in jeopardy: vine aging, climate change, and a generational gap in farming. “The average vine age is currently 60–70 years. These plants are no longer productive and perform poorly, which contributes to low yields,” he explains.
“The second issue is climate change and the lack of rainfall. The third is that we don’t have young people entering the primary sector,” Vamvakousis adds. He notes that even as an industry, winemaking hasn’t managed to inspire the next generation. “We haven’t offered scholarships or training incentives. Ideally, the island should have a vocational school for viticulture and winemaking, especially considering the uniqueness of Assyrtiko, the prized local variety we’re fighting to save.”
“Water SOS” Initiative
To reverse the vineyard’s decline, the Santorini Winemakers Association—which was founded in 2023 and now includes 10 of the island’s 18 wineries—is investing in technology and research in collaboration with universities and research institutions.
“Without water, there’s no future. And it’s clear we won’t return to past times when rainfall was more regular. Our mathematical model shows that by 2042, grape production will reach zero,” says Vamvakousis.
He adds that recent SEO conferences have highlighted even graver prospects: by 2060, coastal Mediterranean flora will change dramatically, endangering not just Santorini’s vineyards but also many crops in zones threatened by desertification.
New Projects in the Works
A working group within the association, called “Water SOS,” is focused on how to secure water resources for the vineyard. “We’re not trying to shift from dry farming to irrigated farming,” Vamvakousis explains. “But if we do manage to find water, we’ll use it in the winter season.”
Among the planned initiatives is a project to treat and reuse water from the island’s wastewater treatment plant for irrigation. A proposal will be submitted under Measure 16 (“Cooperation”), which supports partnerships between entities.
“This isn’t new—Spain has been doing this for 23 years,” he says. In Santorini’s case, the association is working with the local water utility and Aristotle University of Thessaloniki under Professor Stefanos Koundouras to design a program that outlines how the reclaimed water will be used, where, and with what expected impact on plant physiology and grape quality.
Another pioneering idea involves a device that traps atmospheric moisture without using energy and converts it into water.
“This was originally developed by the U.S. military for desert survival. We’re now working with an innovation company in the U.S. to scale it up for agricultural use here,” Vamvakousis reveals.
At the same time, talks are underway with the regional water authority about using existing boreholes. If feasible, and following filtration and desalination, the saline-affected water could also be used for irrigation.
Unregulated Development
Commenting on the special urban development plan released last October, Vamvakousis says, “According to the study, there’s still room for everyone: for expanding settlements, for businesses, and for keeping space for fields and vineyards.” But he also underlines the state’s failure to take concrete action or provide effective solutions.
Source: OT.gr