When I first visited Leonidio, the small provincial town in Arcadia was unexpectedly busy, given it was November. Leonidio was bustling with Greek and foreign visitors with one thing in common: a passion for climbing.

An Alternative Tourism Hub

Nestled between the foothills of Mount Parnon and the shores off the Southeast Peloponnese, the town of some 3,700 inhabitants, is dotted with terracotta-roofed traditional two-story houses that lie at the base of the imposing “Kokkinovrachos” (Red Rock), which is visible from every corner of the town. Signposts in Greek, English and even the local “Tsakonian” dialect adorn the quiet, streets while olive trees dot the landscape.

As the sun begins to set, climbers fill the village square and restaurants, giving the town a festive atmosphere. “During the summer months, Leonidio welcomes mostly Greek visitors,” noted Deputy Mayor for Tourism Simona Tsouka, “but in the off-season, we get climbers, mainly from Central Europe and Germans in particular. However, in recent years, we’ve also seen climbers from the U.S. and Japan.”

In November Leonidio hosted its 5th Climbing Festival, an event launched back in 2016 that was attended by at least 700 people. Previously, the town had visitors only once a year for unique Easter celebrations that involve releasing lanterns into the sky. Leonidio has been featured on major international platforms as a top Greek climbing destination, attracting climbers eager to conquer its iconic red rocks.

“Thematic tourism always comes with dedicated followers, so our visitors come here to do something they’re passionate about,” said Emmanouil Dolianitis, Mayor of South Kynouria, the greater municipality where Leonidio serves as the capital.

Leonidio’s “adrenaline lovers” try highline, a slackline discipline practiced at great heights, between mountains, buildings, bridges or other elevated structures. Credit: Climb in Leonidio

“Climbing tourism starts in September and lasts until May, peaking between October and May, which is something entirely new and special for a small provincial town,” he added. “What we are witnessing here is a small town in Arcadia becoming a model multicultural settlement,” said Dolianitis.

The ‘Leonidio Climbing Park’ Project

Leonidio wasn’t always a climbing destination. “Locals were slow to realize the significance of the cliffs, likely because they’d had no exposure to climbing. In the past, the rocks were viewed as a curse or a potential danger,” said Yiannis Metaxotos, President of the Speleological and Mountaineering Association of Kynouria (SOK).

SOK’s “Melitzanos Climbing Wall” is perfect for very young children who want to try climbing for the first time.

The association now organizes activities including mountaineering, hiking and climbing lessons on these cliffs.
“The first efforts to establish climbing routes here date back to 1986-87,” he said. However, the cornerstone of Leonidio’s international reputation as a climbing hub is the “Leonidio Climbing Park” project, a volunteer initiative from 2012-2017.

“Today we have nearly 2,500 climbing routes for multi-pitch, sport and rock climbing,” he added, noting that many of Leonidio’s climbing areas have become popular both nationally and internationally among clubs, schools, and even elite climbers in search of a location for high-level training.

He credits Swiss climbers Claude and Yves Remy for helping attract attention to Leonidio by opening up routes and promoting the destination in international climbing publications.

“What makes Leonidio special? The variety of its routes, mild winters, ideal climbing temperatures, and high-quality rock,” Metaxotos explained.

A Transforming Community

The sheer number of young people, climbing gear shops alongside traditional coffee houses, and announcements on utility poles for yoga classes and events relating to Middle Eastern politics—where elsewhere you might expect to find funeral notices—, challenged my stereotypical view of a Greek provincial town.

“Community, good weather and the variety of activities drew me here,” said a 36-year-old who wanted to be named only by his first name, Loukas. Initially planning to stay for a month, Loukas ultimately decided to live in the small town permanently. He’s been a Leonidio resident for two years now.

“I’d been wanting to leave Athens for a while and was searching for the right place to move to,” Loukas said. “My first attempt was in Pelion, but it didn’t meet my needs. Leonidio was closer to my tastes,” he added.


Tsouka marvels at the changes: “Who would have thought we’d have a permanent yoga teacher in Leonidio? We also have massage, physiotherapy and sound therapy,” she said.

Credit: Climb in Leonidio

“Even those who aren’t into climbing are happy,” says Tsouka. “Locals are happy to see movement and diversity in the village, or people greeting them warmly, even if they don’t always understand one another. I can confidently say the locals prefer winter tourism to summer tourism.”

Dolianitis noted that “Alternative tourism has made us outward-looking as a municipality and as citizens. Friendships and cultural exchanges have enriched the region.”

A Destination with Enduring Appeal

As with many destinations that are currently experiencing rapid tourist growth, Leonidio faces challenges. Being part of the Natura 2000 network of protected areas also adds complexity.

“Of course, there’s an impact,” admits Dolianitis, citing newfound difficulties in finding affordable housing for public servants such as teachers and doctors with the influx of climbers. “This is a problem we’ve identified, and it’s growing to concern us more and more,” he says.

The shortage of housing is exacerbated by Leonidio’s designation as a traditional settlement and historic site, which imposes restrictions on new construction. “This would have caused a housing shortage even without the rise in tourism. It’s something we need to carefully address,” he adds.

Loukas echoes these concerns, pointing to the proliferation of Airbnb properties and subsequent scarcity of rental housing.

During his time in Leonidio, Loukas has noticed other changes. “By November, I was already having trouble finding climbing spots that weren’t overcrowded,” he notes.

He is worried about how the town will cope with increased visitor numbers two or three years down the line. “I fear it could become unbearably crowded everywhere, with long waits to climb and double parking on rural roads,” he says. “But I hope it doesn’t come to that.”

“It’s a beautiful place, and that’s why I’m still here,” Loukas reflects. “Leonidio has so much to offer, but when do you put the brakes on tourism? ”

Metaxotos has a similar outlook. “Most things have an expiration date,” he explains. “All the work done here has required a great deal of effort. It’s not easy to open up climbing routes or bring them to a high standard. We should do fewer things, but do them well.”

When asked about the future, Metaxotos is clear. “We are working for our children, hoping that Leonidio will be something future generations can enjoy,” he says, concluding, “I believe we’re on the right track, but respect for nature, love for the place, and passion for what we do are all essential, if we’re to keep things from getting out of hand.”