We visited the island at the invitation of Lemnos Philema, an initiative by the island’s Gastronomy and Wine Association, which has passionately worked to put Lemnos on the global culinary map. We were joined by Anthea Kotsi, founder of the initiative, who was our guide and storyteller throughout the trip.
“The idea for Lemnos Philema came to me in 2016, the same year I discovered the island,” Anthea told us. “I felt a deep responsibility—and a national necessity—to promote Lemnos’s incredible gastronomic wealth. It’s a self-sufficient island with a strong primary sector: grains, fish, cheeses, vineyards, olive groves, lamb and goat herding, local honey, and numerous artisanal producers who help preserve its identity. I was amazed to see these products not just used, but celebrated in local restaurants through traditional recipes.”
Anthea Kotsi, founder and organizer of Lemnos Philema, who works to promote the island’s gastronomy and winemaking. Photo: Christos Kavouris
Together with co-founder Despoina Pantelia, Anthea launched the first Lemnos Philema Gastronomy & Wine Festival in 2017. Since then, they’ve built a dynamic network that promotes Lemnos’s culinary culture across Greece with year-round initiatives—pop-up events with acclaimed chefs in Athens and Thessaloniki, and educational seminars back on the island.
“Arriving in Lemnos, you’ll feel something unique wash over you—as though stepping into a serene, earthly paradise,” Anthea said as we began our journey. “The summer light paints the landscape in golden tones, while spring brings calming greens. The island’s terroir—rolling hills, wheat fields, salt flats, dunes, and the moonlike rock formations of Faraklo—offers dramatic and diverse natural scenery you won’t find on other islands.”
She wasn’t exaggerating. And of course, we couldn’t wait to try the island’s signature products: locally milled flour, tahini, the PDO-protected “kalathaki” cheese, and rustic dishes like katimeri—a fried dough filled with soft melichloro cheese, served with honey and kalathaki.
The Stamatéri Flour Mills: Grinding Tradition Into Gold
Grain cultivation has deep roots on Lemnos, dating back to antiquity. Once considered Athens’s breadbasket, the island still boasts vast wheat fields, nourished by its unique soil composition and climate.
We visited the Stamatéri Mills, a family-run business named after its signature flour, to learn about the story behind this local staple.
The milling is still done using the two roller mills originally purchased by grandfather Nikolaos, along with the two more added by their father, Evangelos Stamateris. Now in its third generation, Nikolaos and Maria oversee every stage of the production process. Credit: Christos Kavouris
The mill was originally founded in 1910 by refugees from Asia Minor, and entered the hands of the Stamatéri family in 1960 when Nikolaos Stamatéris, Anthea’s grandfather, decided to leave behind a life at sea. He gradually modernized the operation, a process further advanced by his son Evangelos, who joined in 1980. By 1993, the business had begun packaging its flours for sale in supermarkets across Greece.
Today, the third generation—Nikolas and Maria Stamatéri—oversee the business. With backgrounds in agronomy and food technology, they maintain the family’s commitment to quality, now sourcing wheat not just from Lemnos but across Greece, always carefully selecting the best.
The Stamateris Mills have now passed into the hands of the third generation—Nikolas and his sister Maria—while their mother, Afroditi, used to run the family’s bakery.
What’s truly special? They still use the original milling machines, two purchased by their grandfather and two added by their father. The result is a distinctive golden flour made from hard durum wheat—high in semolina and perfect for pasta, breads, and traditional pastries. It’s a product cherished by home cooks and professional chefs alike.
A Mother’s Touch and a Timeless Recipe
Supporting the mill is their mother, Aphrodite, who arrived on the island as a young bride and quickly took on a central role in both the business and the family’s bakery. She’s known for her love of dough and baking, and during our visit, she treated us to traditional “pitoudia”—Lemnian cheese pies—and honey-drizzled pancakes, showcasing the flavor and texture of their flour.
The mother of the two children, Afroditi, has a love for dough and treated us to traditional pitaroudia (fried vegetable patties).
One of her most beloved recipes is for tyropitoudia, small savory pies filled with cheese and herbs, fried to a crisp golden brown. It’s a dish that encapsulates the essence of Lemnos: humble, rich, and deeply satisfying.
Aphrodite’s Traditional Tyropitoudia (Lemnian Cheese Pies)
Prep time: 40 minutes
Cooking time: 30 minutes
Difficulty: Moderate
Makes: 20 small pies
Dough
- 500 g (approx. 4 cups) Stamatéri Lemnos yellow flour
- 1 tbsp vinegar
- ½ tsp salt
- ½ cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more for frying
- Water, as needed
Filling
- 350 g (12 oz) Lemnos kalathaki cheese or feta
- 2 eggs, beaten
- ½ cup fresh mint, finely chopped
- A dash of black pepper
Method
- Prepare the dough: In a mixing bowl, combine flour, vinegar, salt, and olive oil. Gradually add water while kneading until you achieve a soft, smooth, non-sticky dough. Cover with a damp towel and let it rest while preparing the filling.
- Make the filling: Crumble the cheese into a bowl. Add the eggs, mint, and pepper. Mix well.
- Shape the pies: Divide the dough into 20 equal balls. Keep them covered with a damp cloth while you work. Roll each ball into a square sheet about ½ cm thick. Place a spoonful of filling in the center, then fold all four corners toward the center to seal.
- Fry: Heat olive oil in a frying pan. Fry the pies until golden on both sides. Drain on paper towels and serve warm.
- These pies are perfect as a snack, appetizer, or part of a Mediterranean mezze platter—crispy on the outside, soft and fragrant inside.
