The island of Lefkada in the Ionian Sea is best known for its turquoise beaches, sailboats, and sun-drenched villages—but its capital town tells a fascinating story of resilience and reinvention.
Originally developed around a Venetian-era fortress, Lefkada town was later relocated and reshaped under Venetian rule. After a major earthquake struck in 1825, during the period of British occupation, the town was rebuilt with seismic safety in mind. One surprising architectural decision? The use of sheet metal on house façades—still visible today—bringing a splash of color and charm to the island’s historic center.
Strolling through the old town, you’ll find narrow alleyways, cobbled pedestrian streets, hidden churches, and an ever-present breeze that carries the scent of the sea. It’s a walkable city that invites exploration—and it’s just as rich in food culture as it is in history.
Seaside Stroll or Town Center Charm? You Don’t Have to Choose
Lefkada’s seaside promenade is one of its liveliest areas, especially during spring and summer. It’s dotted with shops, cafés, and tavernas, all bustling with locals and visitors alike. A small wooden bridge adds a picturesque touch, and you’ll find yourself returning for sunset walks or late-night ice cream.
At the town’s entrance stands the Fortress of Agia Mavra, a 14th-century Venetian castle that once guarded the island. It’s well worth a visit, both for its panoramic views and its history. Nearby is the chapel of Agia Mavra, built in 1888, now undergoing careful restoration.
A short walk inland takes you to the vibrant town center. The Ioanni Mela Street leads you from the coast into Lefkada’s commercial heart. Along the way, you’ll pass the island’s Archaeological Museum, the elegant Town Hall, and eventually arrive at the main square, lined with cozy restaurants and wine bars. It’s the perfect place to pause, sip a glass of local white, and watch the world go by.
Even if you’re staying elsewhere on the island—perhaps near one of Lefkada’s famous beaches like Porto Katsiki or Kathisma—you’ll find yourself drawn back to the town center more than once.;
Meet Fryni: Lefkada’s Quiet Culinary Icon
When Fryni first came to Lefkada from Athens, the waterfront was nearly empty—no yachts, no crowds, and very few shops. Today, her restaurant sits right on the harbor, facing a view filled with sailboats and moored catamarans. Still, it’s easy to miss if you don’t know what you’re looking for.
But don’t be fooled by the modest exterior. Fryni’s kitchen is a treasure chest of traditional Greek flavors with a Lefkadian soul. A friend and protégé of the late Evi Voutsina—a pioneer in preserving regional Greek cooking—Fryni started out serving simple ouzo-meze dishes before gradually developing a full menu rooted in local ingredients and culinary heritage.
At her taverna, Fryni on the Harbor, you’ll find dishes like savóro-style fish, cuttlefish with their own ink, cuttlefish giouvetsi with wild greens, and mussels with rice. Each plate tells a story of the island’s coastal traditions, brought to life with care and authenticity. Today, she works alongside chef Spyros Logothetis, keeping the flame of Lefkadian cuisine burning strong.
Signature Dish: Cuttlefish in Their Ink – Fryni’s Way
Prep time: 30 minutes
Cook time: 45 minutes
Difficulty: ★☆☆☆☆
Ingredients (serves 6):
- 6 medium-sized cuttlefish, with ink sacs intact
- 1 large onion, finely chopped
- 1 small coffee cup of extra virgin olive oil
- 1 glass of dry white wine
- Freshly ground black pepper
Instructions:
- Prepare the ink: Carefully remove the ink sacs and mix the ink in a small bowl with a bit of water. Set aside.
- Clean the cuttlefish thoroughly and cut them into bite-sized pieces.
- In a large nonstick pan, heat the olive oil and sauté the cuttlefish. Add the onion and continue sautéing until softened.
- Deglaze with white wine. Let the alcohol evaporate.
- Add the ink mixture and cook over medium heat for about 30 minutes, or until the cuttlefish are tender and infused with flavor.
- Serve with rice or orzo for a full meal.
This dish, deep in flavor and steeped in tradition, is a culinary snapshot of island life—elegant in its simplicity, unforgettable in its taste.
