Μake us preferred on Google You’ve made it to Athens, dropped your bags off at the hotel and head out to explore. Is it just you, or does the Greek capital seem strangely empty and quiet? Welcome to Athens in August… and this is what you need to know.
Of the roughly 3.6 million people living in the wider Athens metropolitan area, more than one million residents leave the city during August. This is known as the “August exodus” in Greece. And there’s a very good reason.
What happens on the Greek islands in the winter, applies very much so in Athens and Thessaloniki, Greece’s two largest cities, in August.
Welcome to “All About Greece”, part of “TO BHMA International Edition Travels Greece With You” series. Here, we answer your questions and introduce you to this wonderful country we call home and you call vacation!
Why August?
Traditionally, August is vacation time for Athenians, who head to their villages, to the islands and to mainland beaches for some sea and sun.
Traditionally, August has been the favorite vacation month for the Greeks. Not by chance. This practice is very much tied to August 15th – the biggest national holiday in Greece after Orthodox Easter. “Dekapentavgoustos” (the 15th of August) is the largest Greek summer happening dedicated to the Holy Mother, the Panagia (Virgin Mary). This religious feast is known as the Assumption or Dormition (Koimisis tis Theotokou) of the Virgin Mary, and commemorates Her “falling asleep” and ascent to heaven.
In the past, many Greeks living in Athens and other urban centers had family roots in villages and smaller towns. August was when they would head back home to visit their families and reconnect with friends. The August 15 holiday was the perfect occasion to do so, and many city-dwellers would also take their annual vacation around this time.
The result? The big cities emptied. With so few customers around, many shop and business owners began closing for part or all of August. Over time, this became a deeply established summer tradition. Even factories and companies operated on skeleton staff and still do!
Today, that tradition lives on. Many Athenians still leave the capital for the islands, to go on their dream vacation, or to visit their family villages for a few days of sea, sun and respite.
Will everything be closed?
You’re bound to see this sign on many shop, cafe and bar windows in Athens, in August.
So I’m sure you’re wondering: will everything be closed in Athens in August? The short answer is no. Shops with handwritten or makeshift signs in windows and on doors are usually individually- or family-owned. These are the businesses most likely to take an August break.
In the past, it was not unusual for stores to close for most or even all of August. If you were staying in Athens, you had to plan ahead. After 2010, and the economic crisis, things changed. Many businesses now close for only a week or two, while some take just a few days off in the runup to August 15.
Large supermarkets, shopping centers and malls generally remain open, as do hotels. Gas stations, however, as well as pharmacies do not. The good news is that although many pharmacies close for their summer holidays, there is a system in Greece of on-duty pharmacies (“efimerevonta”), meaning there will be drug stores open in each area when others are closed.
You can find out which pharmacy is on duty online, through local listings, by calling 14944, or by checking the notice posted outside a closed pharmacy.
Gas stations are a little less predictable. Many along major roads and highways remain open, but finding one operating in the city center can be difficult, particularly around and on the August 15 holiday.
Tourist-oriented businesses also tend to be open. So you’re most likely to find shops open in seaside suburbs along the Athenian Riviera like Glyfada, Voula, Faliro, and in the Plaka neighborhood in the city center.
The same applies to many restaurants and cafes. So if you have your heart set on eating at a particular restaurant in Athens, or want to go to a popular bar, make sure to check Google Maps and their official website or Facebook page, or better yet, call first. August opening hours can change.
Will tourist attractions be open?
Major tourist attractions in Athens, like the Temple of Olympian Zeus, remain open in August.
This is where things get easier. Major tourist attractions, including museums and archaeological sites, generally operate according to their published holiday schedules. However, nothing will be open on August 15. It is a public holiday, so plan accordingly.
So again, I’m sure you’re all wondering if there will be things to do in Athens. Well yes, in fact, I would take advantage of the somehow empty city and do lots of walking. Athens is a leading tourist destination, so areas around the historic center and near major attractions remain lively.
Many of you have asked if visiting Athens in August is a bad idea. I wouldn’t say it is. You won’t have the massive crowds and the city will be quieter and easier to explore – especially for those of you who love walking and wandering, which is by the way the best way to get a feel for a city. Head to the historic center, stroll along the Areopagitou pedestrian walkway at the foot of the Acropolis, head to the Ancient Agora, up to Pnyx Hill or Philipappou Hill, enjoy lunch in the Anafiotika in Plaka, check out the changing of the guard at Syntagma Square. So yes, there’s plenty to do in Athens even in August. And for us locals, staying in Athens in August is a blessing, we finally get to take it slow.
The biggest drawback when visiting in August is the heat.
So some quick advice: plan ahead, check opening hours, buy essentials before the August 15 holiday, and make restaurant reservations where necessary. One more thing: enjoy Athens in August, it’s cool and laid back… an entirely different city.
*Send your questions to Maria Paravantes at mparavantes@tovima.com
