The neighborhood surrounding Amerikis Square, in central Athens, possesses a charm all its own. Every walk through its streets reveals something I somehow missed before: a neoclassical mansion hidden between apartment buildings, a vintage storefront sign whose typography I’d happily hang on my own wall, or the entrance to a 1960s apartment block with its striking door, polished marble and minimalist sculpture—the kind of understated elegance that defined the era.
The area still bears countless traces of its golden years, when these streets were home to the elite of postwar Athens: doctors, lawyers, entrepreneurs, actors, writers and publishers. Spacious apartments, penthouses with views stretching all the way to the sea and elegant balconies reflected both prosperity and refined taste.
The same sophistication extended to the neighborhood’s businesses. Along Patision Avenue and the surrounding streets, pastry shops, tavernas, cinemas and theaters attracted visitors from across the Greek capital. It was a district alive with energy, culture and entertainment.
Pastry shop windows overflowing with cakes and sweet treats once lined Patision Avenue. Saray was among them. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
Over the decades, however, the neighborhood changed. Many long-time residents moved to the suburbs, renting out their apartments. The buildings gradually became home to people arriving in Greece from every corner of the world in search of a better future. Their cultures transformed the district, giving it a new identity while keeping it vibrant and endlessly interesting.
Today, the neighborhood seems poised for another revival. As Athens’ city center continues to expand, younger generations are rediscovering districts they once overlooked, choosing them as places to stroll, dine and spend their evenings.
The neighborhood has changed, and so have its people. But Saray has remained true to its identity, continuing to make the desserts generations have grown up with. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
Tucked away on Lefkosias Street, just below Kalliga Square, stands Saray, one of Athens’ most enduring pastry shops.
Across the street sits the tiny historic Church of Saint Andrew, a site of particular significance in Greek Orthodox tradition. Dating back to the 16th century, it marks the place where Saint Philothei of Athens—a revered nun and humanitarian who was martyred during Ottoman rule—was captured after secretly helping enslaved women escape. It is a small but deeply meaningful monument for many Athenians.
I first noticed the church while passing through the neighborhood one day. After stopping to admire it, I immediately spotted the pastry shop opposite. Needless to say, my curiosity quickly shifted from history to dessert.
A cornerstone of the neighborhood
Saray first opened its doors in 1968, during one of Greece’s periods of rapid urban growth.
Its founder, Stamatis Papagiannis, had arrived in Athens from Constantinople (modern-day Istanbul) with his family after the mass expulsion of the city’s Greek community in 1964-65. Bringing with him years of pastry-making expertise and treasured family recipes, he decided to establish his own confectionery.
In 1986, his beloved nephew, Iosif Lagkadakis, joined the business. When Papagiannis eventually retired, Lagkadakis took over the pastry shop entirely.
Iosif Lagkadakis and his wife, Mimi, are the heart and soul of Saray. He is the tireless pastry craftsman, while she welcomes every customer with warmth and an unmistakable smile. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
Iosif remains the driving force behind Saray today, still working tirelessly in the kitchen after decades.
“I grew up in Patisia, and this pastry shop has always been part of my life,” he tells us.
“Back then, everything was different. The neighborhood had a completely different character. Everyone knew each other and we all gathered at the same local businesses. Over the years, both the area and people’s relationships changed. But kindness never disappeared. We still try to be the kind of neighborhood where people greet one another, look out for each other and show solidarity.”
Flavors made with heart
It doesn’t take long to realize that Saray isn’t simply another neighborhood pastry shop. During the time we’re there, a steady stream of customers comes through the door, each of them seemingly on familiar terms with the owners. There’s a comforting sense of familiarity in the air—the kind that only places woven into the fabric of a community can create.
Iosif is constantly moving between the front counter and the kitchen. Before long, he emerges carrying several trays of kifel, the Istanbul-style croissant.
“It’s exactly the same as the one you’ll find in Austria,” he says with a smile.
The rich aroma of walnuts, cocoa and cinnamon escapes from the freshly baked pastries and fills the room. Naturally, we don’t refuse when he offers us one. Warm from the oven, flaky and wonderfully fragrant, it is every bit as irresistible as it smells.
Freshly baked kifel, generously offered by Iosif. Their aroma alone is enough to make resistance impossible. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
A little later, another tray appears—this time carrying Saray’s famous tsoureki, Greece’s traditional sweet brioche.
I have to admit, this is the moment my eyes truly light up.
Saray’s legendary tsoureki remains one of my favorite sweet breads anywhere in Athens. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
At Saray, the tsoureki is made with only a hint of mastic but plenty of mahlepi, the aromatic spice traditionally made from wild cherry kernels that gives the bread its unmistakable flavor. The result is perfectly chewy, wonderfully aromatic and, quite simply, exceptional.
While Iosif works in the kitchen, we’re kept company by his wife, Margarita—known to everyone simply as Mimi—who has been the welcoming face of Saray for more than twenty years.
Although she studied economics rather than pastry-making, she has learned countless secrets of the trade over the years. More importantly, she possesses an effortless gift for connecting with people. She remembers names, builds lasting relationships with customers and spends her days behind the counter making sure everyone leaves happy.
Talking with her is as delightful as the pastries themselves. Her sense of humor is infectious, and every pause in our conversation becomes another excuse to place something freshly baked into our hands.
As we chatted with Mimi, she kept treating us to whatever had just come out of the oven. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
Iosif has remained committed to preserving the philosophy that has defined Saray since the day it first opened.
“Our dairy suppliers and producers may have changed over the years,” he says, “but we’ve never compromised when it comes to ingredients. We always choose the very best raw materials because we want to offer the finest desserts to the people who trust us.”
That commitment, he believes, explains why so many former residents of the neighborhood still return, even decades after moving away.
“Many old customers come back every year for their vasilopita”—the traditional New Year’s cake cut on January 1—”their tsoureki or simply for our ice cream whenever they want a taste that takes them back in time.”
Ice cream, he explains, has always been Saray’s signature.
The classics have never disappeared: kaimaki, with its distinctive chewy texture and mastic aroma; vanilla; chocolate; tutti frutti; and many other flavors that defined Greek pastry shops in the 1960s and 1970s.
Even today, loyal customers insist Saray’s ice cream is unlike any other.
Alongside these timeless recipes, however, Iosif introduces seasonal flavors and more contemporary creations, giving younger customers—many of whom have recently discovered the neighborhood—new reasons to return.
Ice cream has always been the undisputed star of Saray. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
“I’m happy to see more and more young people around here,” he says.
“And if the square had another two or three places to gather, it would be even better.”
He is particularly pleased by the reopening of Athenee, the neighborhood’s historic open-air cinema.
“It has become a real jewel for the area, and it’s something we should all support. A cinema always elevates a neighborhood. We truly appreciate the people who brought it back to life.”
Listening to him, it’s impossible not to admire the genuine spirit of mutual support that still exists among the area’s independent businesses.
Treasured classics
Looking around the shop, I take in shelves packed with sweets and refrigerated display cases filled to the brim. Everything a devoted dessert lover could hope for seems to be here.
There are the beloved pontikia (“little mice”)—small cream-filled pastries that have been staples of traditional Greek pastry shops for generations—as well as rich chocolate pastries, Menelik cakes (the old-fashioned name for chocolate-and-vanilla layered pastries), almond pastries, éclairs, spectacular cream puffs, mille-feuille and an array of more contemporary individual desserts.
Then come the desserts inspired by the culinary traditions of Istanbul: ekmek kataifi, kazandibi, baklava drenched in fragrant syrup, the delicate milk pudding tavuk göğsü, and even Paris-Brest.
Beloved “pontikia” pastries—a must-have in every classic Greek pastry shop. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
Opposite the refrigerated displays stand glass cases filled with biscuits and savory snacks: traditional dunking biscuits, Smyrna-style cookies, buttery shortbread, flaky yaglikia pastries and crisp cheese batons.
Iosif could easily have reduced the range of products over the years. Many businesses have done exactly that.
But I have the feeling he simply couldn’t bear the thought of disappointing a customer who walked through the door looking for a favorite treat from childhood.
So he continues working tirelessly every day alongside Margarita, remaining a familiar presence not only on Lefkosias Street but throughout the entire neighborhood.
If the local greengrocer brings him particularly fragrant melons, he’ll make a fresh melon granita. Next week he’s expecting sour cherries to arrive, and another seasonal flavor will immediately find its way into the display freezer.
Chocolate and whipped cream—the kind of timeless desserts Saray has always done best. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
The presence of Saray—and of the people behind it—has become an essential part of life around Saint Andrew’s Square.
For those of us who grew up on what Athenians casually refer to as “the upper side of Patision,” its contribution to the often-overlooked lower end of the avenue is impossible to overstate.
Crisp syrup-soaked pastries scented with butter and freshly ground walnuts. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
“The truth is, after so many years in the pastry business, I get tired more easily,” Iosif admits with a laugh.
“But I can’t walk away from it. These days we simply try to take a few more holidays than we used to.”
Then, smiling, he adds:
“Come and try our ice cream before we leave for vacation.”
Saray’s legendary baba au rhum, generously filled with whipped cream and made to Iosif’s signature recipe. Photo: Alexandros Alexandris
And as we leave, we already know it won’t be long before we’re back.
We’ll return for two scoops of ice cream, a freshly baked tsoureki tucked under one arm, and whatever else can fit inside one of Saray’s classic pastry boxes—carefully tied with the shimmering iridescent ribbon that has become, in its own quiet way, part of the shop’s enduring signature.
